The oval diamond has been popularized for decades, as it adds a modern twist to the standard round brilliant cutting style. The elongated shape flatters the hand, while the added length makes the stone appear larger than a round cut of equal carat weight. Some of the top celebrities in Hollywood don oval diamond rings, including Jennifer Aniston, Salma Hayek, and Hailey Baldwin. While GIA doesn’t currently provide a cut grade for ovals, the proportions of this cutting style are crucial when it comes to maximizing brilliance and avoiding the dreaded “bowtie effect.”
About the diamond:
This ring was originally described to us as holding a 3+ carat oval diamond center stone. The client had taken it to several independent jewelers who referred to the piece as a “3 carat diamond ring,” but once it arrived at our buying office it was apparent that something was amiss.
Below are the actual measurements we took of the oval center stone:
Length: 10.34 mm Width: 7.18 mm Depth: 4.27 mm
Plugging these measurements into a diamond weight calculator gave us an estimated weight of 2.092 carats. After taking into consideration factors such as girdle thickness, crown angle, and pavilion angle, we concluded that the stone weighed just 2.01 carats. We were also able to confirm this number on a scale after the diamond was purchased and removed from the setting.
The independent jewelers that the client visited were likely giving her an estimation for the total carat weight of the ring, that is, the weight of the center stone plus the weight of the two accent diamonds on either side. And, based on the face up view of this ring alone, a “loose” estimated carat weight would appear to be…about 3 carats…
The above image serves as an example of what a jeweler could estimate the carat weight to be using just the top down view of the stones. Jewelry store estimations are usually done quickly and without much attention to detail, so any number that you receive is not necessarily an accurate representation of your item.
And here’s why:
Assuming an ideal cut, our 10.34mm x 7.18mm oval diamond should weigh closer to 2.5 carats, yet it sits at 2.01. Which poses the question: Where did that ½ carat go?
What the jewelers all failed to consider is the depth of the diamonds. By turning the center stone to one side it becomes obvious – this diamond is flat!
To get a better idea of the missing weight, check out the photo below. The white dotted line represents the angle of an ideal pavillion.
The cut of a stone is one of the most important elements to consider when valuing a diamond. Even a high quality piece of rough will end up dull and lifeless if it is not cut properly. That being said, flat diamonds do appear larger face-up than they actually are; a budget-friendly benefit that consumers are drawn to.
If a diamond is too flat, however, it will lose the sparkle and fire that the gemstone is known for. Oval diamonds are also uniquely susceptible to the “bowtie effect” if they are cut too shallow, indicating a poorly cut diamond and lowering the overall value. Finding a balance between brilliance and face-up appearance is entirely up to the consumer, and all factors should be considered when buying or selling any oval shaped stone.
Now for some good news; even with a shallow cut this two carat diamond is still a great size for resale! There are certain diamond weights in the jewelry industry that command exponentially larger prices. Examples of these “magic” sizes include:
½ carat ¾ carat 1 carat 1 ½ carat 2 carat 2 ½ carat
And so on..
If a stone falls above one of these “magic” sizes it will benefit from a price bump. At 2.01 carats, our oval diamond does qualify, but just barely. Unfortunately, the thin girdle on this stone makes it extra vulnerable to getting chipped, either when it is reset into a new ring setting, or through an accidental strike against a hard surface when being worn. Even a tiny chip could knock the diamond below the 2 carat mark, drastically lowering the value. For this reason, a similar diamond within the 2.10 carats to 2.30 carats range is much more marketable and thus would fetch a substantially higher price
The final issue that we had to address with this diamond is the fluorescence. The oval diamond in this ring fluoresces medium blue, while the half moon accent diamonds fluoresce strong blue. Fluorescence can affect a diamond’s value by as much as 20%, especially when a diamond is within the D-J color range (such as this one).
About the ring:
The three stone engagement ring is one of the most common alternatives to your traditional solitaire setting. This setting is made out of 14k white gold and holds two half moon cut accent diamonds that weigh approximately ¼ carat each. Since the setting itself is in relatively good condition, we do have the option of replacing the oval diamond with a colored stone and marketing the finished piece as a cocktail ring. That being said, because the setting is relatively modern and does not add any historical value to the piece, our cash offer reflected the cost of materials only. Antique ring settings, or ring settings with designer names such as Tiffany & Co or Harry Winston, do add value to the jewelry, and this added value is always reflected in our offer to buy.
DIAMOND RING SUMMARY
Main diamond weighs in at 2+ carats
Colorless (F) color grade
Trendy/marketable cutting styles
Shallow cut affects the central diamond’s overall brilliance
Thin girdle poses a risk of chipping
All diamonds display medium-strong blue fluorescence
All aspects of this ring were considered in order to determine its fair market value and our cash offer. Measurements were taken meticulously and the client was updated throughout the entire process, helping to mediate any questions or concerns. With large diamonds, it is always best to trust the experts and make a decision that feels right for you. When you are ready, Diamond Estate is here to help.
About Diamond Estate
Diamond Estate Jewelry Buyers is a leading fine jewelry buyer and watch buyer serving customers throughout the US. We've built our business on core values of integrity, honesty, and superior customer service. Are you looking to sell diamonds, rings, watches, earrings or other fine jewelry? Get in touch to get your no-obligation offer.